Country guides
Driving in France: tolls, Crit'Air and the good roads
What the autoroute actually costs, why a sticker you order by post decides whether you can enter Paris or Lyon, and the free roads we take instead when the day allows it.
Tolls
6 stories
Practical
What a month on the road actually costs
Thirty-one days, four countries, 4,300 km and one diesel van: our real spend, line by line, and the costs you can price before you leave.
Country guides
Driving in Italy: ZTLs, autostrada and not getting fined
The cameras never flash and the fine arrives months later. How we handle Italy's ZTL zones, what the autostrada really costs per kilometre, and which parking lines you can actually park on.
Routes
Driving the Norwegian fjords: ferries, tolls and the slow road
Five days from Ålesund to Kristiansund, with ferry decks instead of motorways, cameras instead of toll booths, and the Atlantic Road saved for last. Here is how the paying part actually works.
Practical
Tolls and vignettes in Europe, country by country
Which countries make you buy a sticker, which charge by the kilometre, and how we avoid paying twice - the paid-road map we wish we'd had on our first trip.
Practical
Driving in Europe in 2026: the checklist we run before every trip
Documents, mandatory equipment, vignettes, tolls and low-emission zones - the practical basics that keep a European road trip fine-free, in one place.