Routes
Crossing the Pyrenees: coast to coast on the mountain roads
Seven days from Hendaye to Cerbère over the Tourmalet, Aubisque and Envalira, dipping into Spain and Andorra - our route, the col heights, and the rules that changed in 2026.
Co-author - routes, food & culture
Maps, markets and the case for the long way round.
Camille Berger grew up in Lyon and plans every ondetour route. She writes about slow travel, regional food and the small places that don't make the guidebooks - and firmly believes the direct road is almost never the good one.
Routes
Seven days from Hendaye to Cerbère over the Tourmalet, Aubisque and Envalira, dipping into Spain and Andorra - our route, the col heights, and the rules that changed in 2026.
Routes
Seven slow days on the Great Dolomite Road, from Bolzano to Cortina and up to the Tre Cime - plus the booking rules that now decide whether you get up the famous roads at all.
Routes
Following the coast north from Lisbon to the granite headlands of Brittany - surf towns, pine forests and where we actually slept, in a route built for a slow van.